![]() The gage needs a 12 volt supply when the ignition is turned on. I just haven't had the time to locate it) (I know that there is a poor connection somewhere in my 64 wagon. Any one of these connections being corroded will lead to problems. It has to be there and the connection can not be corroded!ħ) The wire that goes between the sending unit and the gage has several connections within the loom. At the sending unit, you should see a small wire that is connected to the frame. Shorts can cause the sending unit to cause "jumps" as you go from full to empty or even limit the total range.Ħ) The sending unit has to have a good ground connection. That coil can get shorts or can totally break. The way that a sending unit works is that there is a coil that has a sweeping contact. That's the reason that you can't use a Ford gage (Ford sells a fantastic looking gage set for street rods but the fuel gage would be worthless with your GM sending unit!).ĥ) As stated above, the sending unit should show a resistance of zero to 90 ohms. If you are really cheap, you may be able to find it at the local library (you may have to ask if there is a certain branch that carries a large automotive section).ģ) You have to use a GM gage or after market gage that is built to match the GM sending unit! If you go out to buy a new gage and it doesn't say that it's for GM (or also lists Ford), it will not work!Ĥ) GM fuel gages work by knowing that the sending unit will provide a resistance (ohms) of zero when empty and 90 when full. You need to know this stuff!Ģ) Buy the factory wiring diagram for your car! If you are "on the cheap", you can get just the wiring diagram and not the full factory manual. Gages can be bench-checked but this is best left to a specialist.ġ) If you don't already have, and know how to use, an ohm meter, buy one! Have somebody show you how to use it, even if it's some silly computer nerd that doesn't know anything about cars. If they don't check, you have a dash wiring problem. If they look OK, then the Fisher connector is probably dirty.ĥ) Clean and reconnect Fisher connector, pull the connector off the back of the gage and make the same resistance checks to the tan wire. If the readings are different than those at the sender, body wiring has a problem and requires detailed inspection. Go to Step 5.Ĥ) If the gage checks OK, then make the same resistance checks to the tan wire in the body side of the Fisher connector. If not, you probably have a bad gage or possibly a dash wiring problem. Ground the tan wire in the dash side of the Fisher connector and the gage should read empty. Senders are typically grounded by a black wire which is welded to the sender and attached to the body with a sheet metal screw.ģ) If the sender checks OK but gage and wiring don't, clean the connections, reconnect the sender wiring and separate the Fisher connector (located just outboard of the fuse block under the dash). If this doesn't check, then sender or wiring on top of the tank is bad or the sender not adequately grounded. Measurements should track the fuel in tank. Next use a multi-meter to measure resistance to ground of the sender wire connection on the top of the fuel sender or the tan wire from the top of the fuel tank. If not, you have a wiring problem or a bad gage.Ģ) If the gage responds correctly, the gage and wiring are OK. Touch the tan wire from the body to any convenient ground and the gage should read empty. Wait a few moments as some fuel gages take a long time to respond. With the tan wire disconnected at the fuel tank, the fuel gage should read past full with the ignition on. You're looking for a single tan colored wire. This process can be applied to all recent GM cars except those with computerized gages.ġ) Locate the fuel sender feed wire near the fuel tank. I got this from a Chevelle club a few years ago. Here are two different published views on trouble shooting fuel gages. ![]() ![]() This may or may not assist you in your search for your issue ↓ ![]()
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